Adam Frederiksen

  • The 4 Season Fat Bike

    Preston 143 No one likes to have an expensive single purpose bike that collects dust for most of the year in the corner of their garage or basement. But by simply changing out your tires or wheel set, this is a very simple and cost effective way to continue to use that fat bike in a more energy efficient way. Fat Bikes are truly four season, all conditions, any terrain, get you there with a big grin on your face mountain bikes. Transforming your fat bike for the warm weather months is a great way to get more use out of the fat bike you love, all year round. Many of us have studded winter tires or very aggressive 5 inch large knobby tires on our fat bikes for the cold and snowy winter months, however just like you would change tires on your car or truck at the end of the seasons, besides performance switching tires is also great for preserving your precious and expensive winter tires for the season they were designed for.Preston 175 Back in 2009 to fund my first titanium Fat bike I was forced to take a leap of faith and sell all my high end 26 inch full suspension bikes and put all my eggs in one (fat bike) basket. I eased into the transition of owning just one single bike by building up two wheel sets, one fat wheelset 26 x 70mm Speedway rims with Endomorph and Larry tires and installing a Carbon Fatback fork for winter. For my warm season setup I build a set of 29 x 21mm Stans rims with 2.4 inch Schwalbe Racing Ralph’s and installed a Fox F29 suspension fork with 100mm travel. I used this summer setup to compete in many races including endurance marathons, 8 and 24 hr races and a 100 miler. For two years I raced with this setup sometimes experimenting with installing the rigid carbon fork and fat wheel on the front on the bike. The “half fat” setup worked very well for a few reasons as it was slightly lighter than the suspension fork setup and it also provided loads of cornering traction that fat bikes are so famous for, providing the perfect race bike that I could setup just the way I wanted and really “become one” with the bike, by riding it exclusively all year round, swapping rear tires on occasion if I felt conditions warranted it. Fast forward to 2016, we really have many great options available to us now to transform your fat bike into a proficient year round pedaling machine. Many riders out there really enjoy leaving their super aggressive tires on all year round and that is totally fine to do if this tire configuration fits their needs. I know many riders that love their Vanhelga or Nate/Nate or even Bud and Lou tire combo year round for bushwhacking, rock crawling and just as a general aggressive single track tire. Fat bikes are great for that niche of utility vehicle/go over and through anything/ unstoppable machines. This aggressive tire choice is perfect for those people who if it were not for fat bikes would be out ripping it up on their ATV or dirtbike, fat bikes are SO much better for their health and eliminating sound and air pollution and destructive trail impact, if only everyone owned a fat bike…I digress. i phone 1 492 Alright lets look at some great options available to us to make the summer transformation. One option is to swap out your tires for something with less rolling resistance and less aggressive knobs, this also means less actual rubber material so less rotational weight from the tires and subsequently an overall lighter bike. Some examples of great summer fat tires offerings are a set of  Schwalbe Jumbo Jim 26 x 4 inch, these tires are mirrored from the best XC racing tires on the market the Schwalbe Racing Ralph but on steriods, very light weighing in at an impressive 1090 grams each for the snakeskin sidewall version which I recommend or the lighter but much more fragile Liteskin version at 990 grams. The Jumbo Jims are a great tubeless tire with extremely low rolling resistance, a very fast tire choice that also has great cornering abilities. This premium tire offering from Schwalbe has definitely impressed me as you can tell. Schwalbe also makes a 4.8 inch version of the Jumbo Jim for those looking for a higher volume tire. Another decent summer tire choice is the 26 x 4 inch Panaracer Fat B Nimble weighing in at only 1180 grams for the folding bead version built with 120 tpi rubber. This tire is extremely fast rolling and the small knobs provide solid traction for climbing and predictable cornering. The 26 inch version Fat B Nimble is best used at a slightly higher air pressure to avoid a slight auto steer tendency if used on some wider rims, but is still a very solid choice for a more budget friendly easy rolling fat tire. 45NRTH is known for their great winter tires and summer Fat bike performance can be found here with their 26 x 4 inch Husker Du tire, there is a standard 120 TPI folding version available now and by mid June of 2016 they will be releasing their new ultralight Husker Du  model with a weight of just 1240 grams per tire but still providing great traction for most 3 season riding and racing, this ultralight tire features the same tread pattern as it predecessor but the center knobs are much lower making it roll faster while the outside cornering knobs are higher than the original to provide better traction in loose corners. Surly has a few 26″ tire offerings that offer less rolling resistance for those looking for a warm season tire, there is the Black Floyd which is a full on 26x 3.8″ slick fat bike tire great for road riding with your fat bike, then there is their Knard 26 x 3.8″ tire, Knard 26 x 3″ or Knard  26 x 4.8″ tire as well as the same tread pattern offered in 27.5 inch and 29er tire models.Another popular tire choice from the guys over at Surly is their 26 x 3.8″Larry and 26 x 4.7″ Big Fat Larry tires which offer the rider a great fast rolling, low knob tire choice that is considered one of the “Go To” tire choices for beach and sand riding. The 4.7″ version is perfect to provide maximum flotation in soft sand due to its large volume tire casing but offers very low knob height making it ideal for fitting into a wider variety of frames including most 170 mm rear hub spaced frames. There are two more tire brands that I will mention briefly before moving on to alternative wheel size options for your all season fat bike. Vee Rubber has a few tires that could be used like the Bulldozer but thus far none of their tire offerings seem to fit my needs. Kenda Tire makes a decent fast rolling tire called the Juggernaut Pro, and with a claimed weight of only 900 grams this is the lightest fat tire available to date, but the low weight has to come from somewhere and with the Juggernaut Pro it is with its very low knobs and minimal sidewall protection. The Juggernaut Pro is still a decent tire choice for hard packed conditions and general riding not requiring traction just be conscious of its limits in any loose trail conditions and vulnerable sidewalls while plowing through rock gardens. Just when you thought that owning a fat bike couldn’t get any better, it has yet another advantage over a skinny tire bike with it’s ability to use a 27.5+ and/or a 29er+ wheel set on your existing fat bike frame making this wonder bike even more versatile. Adding a second wheel set into your mix of options is a great way to lighten up and increase the speed of your fat bike for the warmer months and adds a real viable option for someone that is looking for that quiver killing “One bike does everything, super bike”. Many riders out there are always joking about N + one (N=current number of bikes one owns +one) however that equation does not always work for quite a few riders due to either bike storage constraints, or financial reasons and some just choose one “super bike” for minimalist lifestyle reasons. Whichever wheel size or tire size fits your individual needs at any particular time throughout the calendar year, I hope you always choose Fat. And one last thing to remember is, as the famous saying goes “Once you go Fat, you never go back”. Cheers to a Fat season. Pivot 1 005
  • Winter Riding Clothing-Part 3 Layering Below the Waist

    This post will be a short one, it will cover what I like to use on my lower body for cold weather riding and racing. First off lets start with covering the important stuff, Literally. I use smartwool wool boxers that have a windblocker panel sewn across the front. Windproof Boxers like this are an essential item for helping to not freeze your Important parts off (The Ladies could benefit from windblocker wool undies also I’m guessing). While sitting on the bike, this position leaves the area between your legs very vulnerable to the winds cold blast. Next layer added is a thin wool 260 weight Icebreaker or similar wool long john/base layer tights. If the temps are in the extreme low range or my pace is going to be more of a chill cruising I tend to add a thicker wool tight like the 370 weight Ibex energy free winter tights on top of the 260 weight or some combination of those pieces depending on temperature.
    I cover all my base layers with a soft shell water resistant highly breathable soft shell pant/tight like my favorite pants which is the Ibex Climawool tight.
    That is all I use on my lower body for layering.
    I do bring along a pair of Arc’teryx Beta SL Gortex shell pants on longer adventures and races just in case I need a great fitting lower body wind and waterproof shelter.
    Here’s a picture of my son Ryan at 9 yrs old ripping up some of our local trails.
    Arrowhead 135 075
    My next post will be on the most talked about, asked about, all important topic of winter footwear!
  • Adam Frederiksen's Pivot LES Fat Ultra Bike Check

    Today while you might be heading out for a great post-work ride on your local trails, Adam Frederiksen is packing the bike and flying to Winnipeg, Manitoba for the final stop of the 2016 Ultra Fat Bike series, the Actif Epica. Here Adam gives you a rundown of his bike set up for these races long distance races. Having recently completed the Tuscobia 160 and Arrowhead 135 Ultra, once completing the Epica, Adam will be joining the Order of the Hrimthurs an honor given to riders who complete all three in one season. It is a short list. Adam approached us last season after completing the Actif Epica. Pivot had just released the new LES fat and we were quick to get Adam and Ryan on the first available bikes. After riding most of the summer on a 29+ set up of Sarma Naran Carbon rims we recently switched Adams build to the HED Big Deal 85mm carbon wheels, an ultralight rim for endurance racing. Here is a complete run down of Adam’s killer build! Frame: Pivot LES Fat Carbon – Large – 197mm Rear/150mm front Spacing – Swinger rear drop outs – Adjustable BB height for all rim and tire combos Drivetrain: Sram X1 1×11 Shifter, Derailleur, XG1195 Cassette, Raceface Next SL Crank, 32t DM Chainring Brakes: Formula R1 – 180/160mm Rotors Cockpit: Jones Carbon Loop Bar (Carbon helps for warmth and dampening), Thompson Stem,  Thompson Seatpost, Sheepskin Covered Leather saddle (Warm and Funky) Bags: Relevate Frame bag, Sweet roll, Toptube bag, Viscacha Seatpost Bag, Outdoor Research Insulated 32oz bottle parka Wheels: HED Big Deal 85mm Carbon rims on Industry Nine Hubs, Sapim CX ray Spokes Tires: 45NRTH Dillinger 5 custom Studded Total Packed Weight – Sub 43 lbs Adam_Pivot_LesFat_Arrowhead
  • Adam’s Winter Fat Bike Ultra Clothing Gear Check

    Our man Adam Frederiksen shares his choices for apparel when racing an Ultra like the Arrowhead 135. Spending 20+ hours on a bike in the cold is a true test to any apparel system. These tips will help you choose the right items to layer for just about any ride and aerobic activity outdoors in winter. We are fortunate to have so many great choices for performance fabrics and insulation these days to keep you warm and dry during activity but we also love our natural fibers like Merino Wool as one of the best for next to skin dryness and warmth when wet. The key is applying the right layers for the temperature and the effort of your activity and there are likely few activities more challenging than the Arrowhead Ultra.   To recap what Adam has covered in this video, here is a list of the items he used during the Arrowhead 135, Tuscobia and the upcoming Actif Epica. Hydration – Relevate Wompack with Hydraheater – One of the best solutions to keeping water consumable in the cold Helmet – POC Trabec Race – You only have one head, protect it well Goggles – Double lens vented – We like Smith IO and other helmet compatible models with an interchangable lense. Head – Icebreaker Merino Buff/balaclava, Merino headband (worn over ears and across your nose) Bottoms – Gore Windproof Boxers, Icebreaker wool bottoms, Ibex Climawool Pants with softshell outers Top – Icebreaker 150 weight merino tank or T, Icebreaker 260 weight Merino wool mid layer, Ibex Climawool jacket Feet – Polypro liner Socks, Smartwool Merino PHD midweight socks, 45nrth Wolfgar boots (these are expedition boots for long ultras and Adam who gets cold toes after 10 hours in the saddle, we recommend the Wolvhammer as the ideal boot for warmth in most use) Hands – 45nrth Merino wool liner glove, Relevate Pogies (this is a great combination as you get the dexterity of a light glove and the supreme warmth of a Pogie. Keep food warm in your pogies and be able to easily grab those snacks or other items out of your bags)    
  • Fat Tires-Airing up and Proper Pressure

    LOW PRESSURE GAUGES

    Fat Biking is still considered in its infancy as a sport. There are many things that people are still learning and experimenting with. Fat tire air pressure is one of those things that makes a huge difference in the handling, control and traction of your bike. (more…)
  • Winter Riding Clothing-Part 2 Core And Hand Layering

    CORE For all my winter riding I will start with a very thin base layer next to skin like a 250 weight wool tank top. What goes on top of that depends on the temperature. But keep in mind that you may start to overheat very quickly while fat biking, riding in fresh powder breaking trail requires more effort than just going for a hike in the woods, think about how hot and sweaty you get will shoveling heavy snow, chopping firewood or cross-county skiing . Just because it is -10*C or colder doesn’t mean that you won’t sweat. Sweating is VERY bad as you will get cold and possible hypothermia minutes after you stop moving at that high aerobic pace. Eventually you will have to slow down or stop. If you are cold when you leave your warm house or car to head out for a ride then you may be dressed correctly, remember to bring along a warmer layer/s to have readily available for when you stop to take pictures, have a lunch/snack break or any mechanical emergencies that could happen while out on the trail, it can only take seconds to get really cold. OK back to the next layer, on top of that I wear a softshell wool jacket, it sheds water and snow but is highly breathable.(Any similar soft shell jacket such as one made of polartec will work, I just really happen to like wool). Gortex does not work for an  upper body layer while doing any highly aerobic activity’s like winter cycling. What happens is the Gortex “pores” can not keep up with the high humidity/moisture produced by your bodies core and it will clog up and then start to get wet and clammy inside the jacket, next the moisture will turn to ice crystals (sounds cold, doesn’t it?) . If the weather is getting in the -20* to -40* range or if I am going for more of a casual pace type ride I wear a long sleeve wool shirt between my tanktop and softshell jacket. While doing longer races I bring along a spare base layer and mid layer to change into if my current one starts to get too sweaty. When I head out for a winter ride I like to bring a very lightweight/small synthetic “puffy” coat in my frame bag. But when heading out on a extended race or trip I pack along my expedition/belay down parka to wear once I stop moving and generating that high level of heat. For really windy cold riding I  have been experimenting with a vapour barrier vest, it is great piece for blocking the bitter cold wind from hitting the front of your chest and stomach. That’s about it for upper body, now lets chat about keeping your hands warm. i phone 1 422 HANDS
    I am a big fan of pogies, I can race in like -5*C in just a tanktop for my upper body if my hands are tucked in some toasty warm pogies. For riding in 3 or 4*C to about -8* I just wear my summer riding gloves with my regular insulated pogies. For riding in slightly colder temps I switch to a pair of wool liner gloves, that is all I wear on my hands all the way down to the really cold -40*C and below temps, I just add the fleece liner to my expedition pogies at around -15*C and below. On occasion I will bring chemical hand warmers with me, I like to use them by just throwing them loose in the pogies, they are also useful for pre warming your cold pogies so you don’t stick your hands in cold pogies. For longer cold races I pack along a pair of expedition gloves for when I stop and my hands are going to be out of the warm pogies for any length of time. As you can tell I really don’t like big bulky “winter riding” gloves as they just seem to get in the way, make it extremely hard to eat food while riding and don’t give you the cockpit control and feeling that thin gloves do. My next post will be on below the waist layering followed by a separate article on footwear. Arrowhead 135 091

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